Hannah sock pattern

I have written the pattern - finally!! Please inform me of any missing instructions & I will correct. Also, remember - this is my first time actually writing
a pattern for knitting, please bear with me. These instructions are for a anklet or sport-style short sock, knit from the top down - if you want a longer sock, simply knit in the lace pattern stitch until you reach the length desired. Most "normal" sox are 6" - 7" long from top of cuff to top of heel flap. I'm also including tips I found very helpful in learning how to knit sox. Those of you with previous experience may find me a bit long-winded, but to the beginner - I hope they help you like they did me - to truly understand the construction of a hand-knitted sock. A very good sock tutorial can be found on Knitty.com - here's the addy of the article: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring05/FEATsocks101.html

I used size 3 (US) double pointed needles and a sportweight yarn, I think. As I said before - it was something I bought off Ebay from an estate sale. It seemed slightly thicker than sock or fingering yarn. Gauge was 7 sts per inch/9 rows per inch (I knit a little on the tight side).

Cast on 48 stitches using preferred method. This sock fits a medium with foot (the lace pattern stretches nicely) - if you need a wider sock, cast on your increases in multiples of 6 sts to accomodate the lace pattern. Divide stitches in multiples of 6 onto 3 or 4 needles, your choice. I most often use 4 needles, so I had 12 stitches on each needle. Join, being careful not to twist sts, and work in fave rib pattern (mine is done in 1 X 1) for 3/4" (2 cm) or approx 8 rows. Use stitch marker to remind you where the end of the round is.


LACE PATTERN - multiple of 6 stitches
ROW 1 - *K1, P1, YO, SSK, P1, K1* repeat until all sts used
ROW 2 - *K1, P1, K2, P1, K1* repeat
ROW 3 - *K1, P1, K2tog, YO, P1, K1* repeat
ROW 4 - WORK THE SAME AS ROW 2

Start & work in pattern stitch for approx 1 1/2" (4 cm) or longer, depending on the length of sock you want. When desired length is reached, divide sts onto 3 needles - 1/2 the # of total sts on 1 needle, the other 1/2 split between 2 needles. On mine, it was 24 sts on 1st needle, 12 sts ea on needles 2 & 3.

Work heel flap in desired heel stitch. Traditionally, a heel stitch is:
ROW 1 - Slip 1st stitch, K1, *Sl1, K1* repeat
ROW 2 - Slip 1st st, purl across back of row
Repeat until heel flap is desired size, ending on WS row.

I used the Eye of Partridge heel stitch, tho - I think it's very pretty plus sturdy!

EYE OF PARTRIDGE HEEL STITCH
ROW 1 - Slip 1st st, K1, *Sl1, K1* repeat
ROW 2 - Slip 1st st, purl across back of row
ROW 3 - Slip 1st TWO sts, *K1, Sl1* repeat, end with K2
ROW 4 - WORKED SAME AS ROW 2
Repeat these 4 rows until heel flap is desired size, usually about 2 1/4" (5 1/2 cm) or a square shape, ending on WS row. If the person who wears sox has very high instep, you may want to make it a little longer.

TURN HEEL - this is easy, once you get used to it. Scared me @ first, but no more. A good tip I found online was that no matter how many sts your heel flap is, knit approx 2/3 of them on 1st row before doing the dec stitch. Then on 2nd row, purl about 1/3 of total # of heel flap sts before doing dec st. Hope that helps.
On 24 st heel flap: ROW 1 - Knit 1st 16 sts, K2tog, K1, turn work
ROW 2 - Purl 1st 8 sts on needle, P2tog, P1, turn work
ROW 3 - Knit all sts til you reach gap caused by dec on prev row, K2tog over gap (close it, in other words, by knitting st before & after gap together), K1, turn work
ROW 4 - Purl to gap, P2tog over gap, P1
Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked, end up with approx 10 sts. End on RS row.

PICK UP HEEL GUSSETT STITCHES - easy rule of thumb here: pick up 1/2 the # of rows that are in your heel flap. Ex: If heel flap is 28 rows long, pick up 14 sts down the side of the heel flap. I usually pick up an extra stitch down in that corner where the pattern stitch starts again, so I don't get a hole there (approx 38-39 sts on needle now). Continuing around needles, work the pattern stitches in the patt stitch all onto one needle (24 sts). Using spare needle, pick up 14-15 sts along opposite side of heel flap and knit 1st 12 sts onto needle (38-39 sts).

DECREASE ROUND
Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1
Needle 2: Knit in lace pattern stitch
Needle 3: K1, SSK, knit to end of needle

Alternate decrease rounds and even (lace pattern) rounds until you're back to the number of stitches you cast on originally.

Work in 1/2 lace pattern and 1/2 stockinette stitch until sock measures approx 5 1/2" (14 cm) from heel flap for ladies size medium, 6 1/2" (13 1/2cm) for ladies size large. Now you're ready for the toe decreases, which will be all in stockinette stitch. Remember that center of the round is the center of the heel. Make sure your stitches are distributed as follows: 1/4 of the stitches on Needle 1 starting at the center of the round, 1/2 of the stitches on Needle 2 (these are the stitches for the top of the foot), and the remaining 1/4 on Needle 3.

WORK DECREASE ROUND
Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1.
Needle 2: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1.
Needle 3: K1, SSK, knit to end of needle.
Work an even round.
Alternate decrease rounds and even rounds until 8 stitches remain.

Graft toe together using Kitchener stitch or do what I do & don't graft @ all! Thread length of yarn thru tapestry needle, run thru loops on "live" stitches, twice, draw tightly and end off, weaving in ends of yarn. More on non-grafting toes here: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter08/FEATgraft.php

You're done - now go & make the 2nd sock!!